Get ready for an extraordinary journey through time with the upcoming Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction: XXI! This auction showcases an incredible range of pocket watches, spanning two centuries and offering a unique glimpse into the evolution of watchmaking craftsmanship. From the early 19th century's exquisite enamel masterpieces, tailored for the Chinese market, to the 20th century's triumph of tourbillon chronometers at observatory trials, each piece tells a story of technical innovation and aesthetic excellence.
Lot 1086: A Chronometer's Tale
The first highlight is a tourbillon chronometer crafted by Albert Pellaton-Favre, later sold by S. Smith & Son. But here's where it gets controversial: the English and Swiss had differing opinions on what constitutes a chronometer. The English insisted on a chronometer escapement, while the Swiss considered any precise timepiece a chronometer. This lot, with its spring detent escapement and 'Especially Good' certificate, satisfies both definitions.
The Swiss Connection
While S. Smith & Son sold many tourbillons, most were locally sourced. However, this lot's movement is Swiss, showcasing the global nature of watchmaking. The London branch of Baume Frères ordered six tourbillon chronometers from Albert Pellaton-Favre, one of which held the record at Kew Observatory for a decade, achieving an impressive score of 91.9 points in 1892. This watch is now owned by the modern Baume et Mercier company.
Precision vs. Performance
Comparing the S. Smith & Son and Patek Philippe tourbillons, we see a fascinating contrast. The S. Smith & Son model has a mean variation in rate of 0.3 seconds per day, while the Patek Philippe achieves an incredible 0.08 seconds per day. Similarly, the mean deviation between positions is 0.39 seconds for the former and 0.85 for the latter. These differences highlight the remarkable technical advancements made in the early 20th century.
A Rare Patek Philippe
Lot 943 is a rare find - an original Patek Philippe tourbillon with a period-correct up/down indicator. Most Patek Philippe tourbillons with this feature were added later and sold to VIP clients. This example, made in 1920 and adjusted by Master Regleur J. Golay-Audemars, took first place at the Geneva Astronomical Observatory with 815 points in Class B. Its large 21"' movement and 60 mm case make it a true standout.
The Chinese Market's Influence
As we delve into the Chinese market's influence, we see how collectors' tastes have evolved. In the past, foreign markets had distinct preferences, and the English watchmaker William Ilbery played a pivotal role. He developed the calibre Chinoise, moving the fourth wheel to the center to accommodate the Chinese market's preference for center seconds hands. This design is now seen in the ETA 2824 movement and many others.
A Miniature Masterpiece
Lot 1011, an anonymous Swiss piece titled "Hector's Departure," showcases a miniature enamel painting of a scene from Homer's Iliad. The painting, almost certainly by a Genevan artisan, depicts Hector, the hero of Troy, bidding farewell to his family before battling the Greeks. This piece is a testament to the region's expertise in decorative arts, as seen in the Patek Philippe Museum's extensive collection of Chinese market watches and clocks.
Ilbery's Antiquated Charm
Lot 1092, an Ilbery watch from around 1810, features an antiquated fusee movement with small seconds and a duplex escapement. The miniature enamel painting is attributed to Jean-Louis Richter of Geneva, known for his charming 'doll-like' faces and idyllic country life scenes. This early Ilbery watch is estimated at HK$200,000 - 400,000.
Patek Philippe's Enamel Legacy
Patek Philippe has been a key supporter of Genevan enamel throughout the 20th century. Lot 820, painted by Suzanne Rohr, one of the firm's most famous enamel artisans, replicates a work by Genevan landscape painter Jacques-Laurent Agasse. This piece, from 1975, depicts Lord Rivers of London and is a testament to Patek Philippe's commitment to preserving this art form.
A Hawaiian Warrior
Another Patek Philippe piece, Lot 821, reproduces English artist John Webber's 1784 painting "Guerriers Hawaiiens." This is one of the few paintings by Marthe Bischoff for the firm. Webber, the official artist on Captain Cook's third expedition, created numerous sketches and paintings, including the famous "The Death of Captain Cook."
Gem-Set Extravagance
The most extravagant pocket watch in the auction, Lot 885 by Piaget, focuses on gem setting. The 58.5 mm hunter-style case is adorned with 246 baguette-cut diamonds and 89 baguette emeralds. The engine-turned gold dial is further embellished with diamonds and emeralds, creating a truly opulent display. This watch, with its monumental display stand, debuted in 1996 in anticipation of the Hong Kong handover.
A Cultural Icon
The back of the Piaget watch is engraved with a view of the Hong Kong skyline, including Jardine House, Exchange Square, and the General Post Office. This piece is not just a watch but a cultural artifact, capturing a moment in Hong Kong's history. The movement, a relatively common repeater with imitation-Westminster chimes, has been completely refinished and engraved to match the case's decadence.
Parmigiani's Gem-Set Wonder
Lot 890, the Meccanica II by Parmigiani Fleurier, is another gem-set masterpiece. Built in the same town as the Chinese market watches from nearly two centuries earlier, Parmigiani continues this tradition today. The Meccanica II features 25.93 carats of baguette diamonds and a seconds hand, adding to its allure. This movement, based on a LeCoultre ebauche, is equipped with a perpetual calendar and an abstract enamel back, a common motif for Parmigiani.
A Preview of Excellence
The sale and preview exhibition will be held at Phillips Hong Kong in the West Kowloon Cultural District. The preview will be open daily from November 15-23, 2025, from 10:00 am-7:00 pm. The auction will take place on November 21, 22, and 23, starting at 2:00 pm each day. Mark your calendars and join us for this extraordinary journey through time and craftsmanship!
